Weed And Seed Lowes

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Now that the weather is warming up, outdoor activities are gearing up, and you’re finally looking at your lawn. Homeowners may be tempted to run to their local lawn and garden store to pick up a bag of Weed-n-Feed. Many “experts” will tell you that this is the best way for homeowners to control weeds and fertilize for “season long control”. I was in Lowes today and was buying stuff for the yard and apperantly they are having a sale on Sta-Green Grass Signature Blend Grass Seed its regular $56… Maintenance A little bit of service and preventative maintenance can ensure that your lawnmower, string trimmer and other implements are running efficiently and won’t break down before you place

8 Reasons Weed-‘N’-Feed May Not Be Right for You

Now that the weather is warming up, outdoor activities are gearing up, and you’re finally looking at your lawn. Homeowners may be tempted to run to their local lawn and garden store to pick up a bag of Weed-n-Feed. Many “experts” will tell you that this is the best way for homeowners to control weeds and fertilize for “season long control”.

The reality is, you will pay top dollar for a subpar product. Once you factor in the product costs and your time, it will be less expensive in the long run to hire a professional that is certified in lawn weed control and fertilization. Personal Lawn Care, Inc. provides three weed control and three fertilization applications with free touch-ups throughout the season. Our program provides true “Weed-n-Feed” for your lawn.

Here are 8 reasons you shouldn’t use Weed-n-Feed

1 Wrong Amount: One of the reasons most homeowner are unhappy with their Weed-n-Feed application is due to an improper rate of application. If you apply the product too thin, the weeds will be able to break through; too heavy and you risk burning your lawn or stressing it out. Sometimes the product itself is poorly formulated or simply too strong for your lawn.
2. Bad Timing: There is a small window of time (usually 6-12 weeks) where you can control spring weeds. If you have a hard time fitting lawn care into your schedule (like most homeowners) and it creeps into May or June before you apply Weed-n-Feed products, they will at the least be ineffective and at most damage your lawn. Unfortunately your local lawn and garden center will sell Weed-n-Feed products well into the summer.
3. You don’t water it in: There are two irrigation aspects that must be met when using Weed-n-Feed products. First, the leaves of the weeds must be wet before the product is applied. To take care of the weeds that have already germinated, the product must stick to the leaves. Then, about 24hr later it must be watered in. The product has to soak into the soil to work on germinating weeds. Products that your local lawn professional apply soaks deeper into the soil preventing germination. Basically knocking out those weeds before they have a chance.
4. The product doesn’t cover all weeds: Even though the Weed-n-Feed you get at your local lawn and garden center says it covers a broad spectrum of weeds, they may be overselling their product. Most of their products are sold nationwide. It is impossible for one product to cover every weed eventuality. Personal Lawn Care tailors the products applied to meet your specific weed control needs. This provides targeted control for even the hardiest of weeds.
5. Won’t prevent weeds in the future: Just because your Weed-n-Feed takes care of your dandelions now, it may not take care of the crabgrass that springs up a week later. There may be products that last longer, but for better control, contact your local lawn care professional.

6. You don’t know how safe the product is: There is a lot of debate about products used for weed control. The Weed-n-Feed products available may contain any number of chemicals. Just because the Department of Agriculture approves a product to be used on your lawn, doesn’t mean that it is safe for you, your children, or your pets. Over the past 30 years, Cullen Beard, owner of Personal Lawn Care, has taken great care in choosing which products are applied to your lawn. His background as a science and chemistry teacher makes him qualified to research the products in depth. “If I wouldn’t use the products on my own yard, around my own children, then I won’t use it on yours”.

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7. Too much Nitrogen: The “feed” part of Weed-n-Feed products is usually a high nitrogen fertilizer. High nitrogen fertilizers should only be used during the summer when the lawn has come completely out of dormancy. Providing your lawn with too much nitrogen too early in the season will weaken root growth thereby making it more susceptible to drought or other stresses. Cullen recommends a high phosphorous fertilizer in the spring followed by a high nitrogen fertilizer during the summer.

8. Can interfere with seeding: If you are planning to seed your lawn, Weed-n-Feed will stop you in your tracks. Because Weed-n-Feed kills the weeds as they are germinating, it will also kill your delicate grass shoots. If you are planning on seeding, you should refrain from using any pre-emergent weed control until the new grass is well established.

Grass Seed and Winterizer Fertilizers onsale at Lowes Now 25% off

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chuckyH
Senior member

I was in Lowes today and was buying stuff for the yard and apperantly they are having a sale on Sta-Green Grass Signature Blend Grass Seed its regular $56 and is now $43 for the 50lb bag, clerk said the price was probly just through this weekend and shows up at the register not on the shelf. Also they had the Sta-Green Winterizer Plus Weed And Feed Fertilizer with $4 dollar rebates on the 5M and $7 on the 15M bags with no limit on how many bags you can get a rebate on – rebate good through Oct 31 2004. I think that some of the other brands may have been on sale but those are what I got. I am not sure if this is nation wide but if not I will change it to YMMV
:shocked:

Edit: Found out that all ferts and grass seed is 25% off with the rebate on the 5M Sta-Green winterizer plus weed and feed that make those bags $2 and some odd cents a bag!! normaly $8.97 I think.

MrCoffee
Member

Thanks! My lawn can use all the help it can get. It’s probably time I start planning for the Fall/Winter.

will792
Member

Most of the seed in Lowes/HD is low quality. The best grass seed is carried by good landscaping supply stores and specialized seed companies. It is better to use seed mixed for your area. One source for Northeast is http://www.crosmanseed.com (Upstate NY) and for MA http://www.snow-pond.com/ (Environmental blend). The premium quality seed is more expensive than cheap variety but ends up cheaper long term as it requires less care (less frequent mowing due to slower growth and less fertilizing).

Most of state universities have web pages on lawn management with advice on grass seed selection. One for CT is http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/homegrnd/htms/58lcm.htm . Their advice is the best is they are not biased and specialize in this area.

Chunkee
Lifer

i tell you what, i bought rebel grass seed, supposed to be good. my friggin yard is full of weeds. what a crock. i think the retail grass seed is crap. i now have spend so much money seeding and reseeding with crap seed, for a lawn full of weeds. in the long haul it is better probably to have a professional come in and do it.

i am weary with this battle and am over it

will792
Member

Originally posted by: Chunkee
i tell you what, i bought rebel grass seed, supposed to be good. my friggin yard is full of weeds. what a crock. i think the retail grass seed is crap. i now have spend so much money seeding and reseeding with crap seed, for a lawn full of weeds. in the long haul it is better probably to have a professional come in and do it.

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i am weary with this battle and am over it

Most of the weeds come from the existing soil not from grass seed. The best way is to get rid of all grass and weeds on the existing lawn before seeding new grass (Using RoundUp or black plastic on hot days). There are selective herbicide products that destroy most of the weeds but grass has to be established to use them.

By the way Rebel is not a mainstream grass seed product. It is tall fescue grass, a new variety of lawn grass that was engineered to look like good lawn grass. The original version of tall fescue looks like a weed. I personally do not like Rebel. The advantage of tall fescue is that it has very deep roots so won’t die without watering in summer.

It is better to go with a traditional mix of Kentucky Blue Grass (called KBG by many), hard fescue and perennial ryegrass. Each type of grass seed has multiple cultivars some of which are really good.

I did not find any big company selling good quality grass seed at low cost. Most of these companies are regional and small.

Maintenance

A little bit of service and preventative maintenance can ensure that your lawnmower, string trimmer and other implements are running efficiently and won’t break down before you place them back into storage for the winter. Such machines are typically gasoline powered, so they should be serviced using the following simple steps:

and other handheld lawn machines, which typically have two-cycle engines and run on a mixture of gasoline and oil. Four-cycle engines, common on lawnmowers, will need to be drained of oil.

5. Clean the equipment. Use a putty knife and wire brush to knock off accumulated grass and mud, then reattach the blade if you removed one earlier.

6. Fill the oil tank. If you’re servicing a four-cycle engine, refill the oil tank with fresh oil.

7. Replace the air filter. This improves airflow to the engine, allowing it to run more smoothly.

8. Replace the spark plug. Although your old spark plug may still work properly, installing a new one is a cheap and easy way to ensure optimal performance.

How to Mow Your Lawn in the Spring

It may surprise you that there’s more to grass cutting than cranking up the lawnmower and pushing it across the lawn. Both mowing height and frequency are important to the health of your grass.

Though it may reduce the number of times you have to mow, cutting your grass short is harmful to your lawn in the long run. Mowing with a low blade height removes nutrients stored in leaf blades and exposes the soil to sunlight, allowing weeds to take hold more easily. Taller grass is better able to compete with weeds, thanks to a larger root system and a higher tolerance for heat. It also shades the ground, allowing the soil to retain water more effectively.

Given these benefits, it’s a good idea to cut your grass at the tallest height recommended for your grass type, which are as follows:

Common bermudagrass: 1-2 inches (2.5-5 centimeters)Fescue: 2-3.5 inches (5-9 centimeters)Kentucky bluegrass: 2-3.5 inches (5-9 centimeters)St. Augustine: 2-4 inches (5-10 centimeters)Zoysia: 0.5-1.5 inches (1-4 centimeters)

Mow your lawn often enough so that you’re only removing the top one-third of the blades. This places less stress on the grass, and the smaller clippings are able to decompose more easily. Avoid bagging these clippings; this added organic matter is actually quite good for the soil

Fertilizing Grass in the Spring

Once your grass is well-established, you can encourage its growth and discourage weeds by applying a combination of fertilizers and herbicides. When you should apply these substances and how much you should apply depends on several factors, like where you live and the extent of your weed problem.

Fertilizer can help your lawn grow thick and lush, but if it’s not used properly, it can actually damage the grass. A slow-release nitrogen fertilizer is best, and no more than 1 pound (0.45 kilograms) of nitrogen should be spread per 1,000 square feet (93 square meters). It should be applied early in the season when the turf begins actively growing, so the timing varies among regions. Fertilizer should not be applied too early or late, however, as lingering cold or early heat can stress the grass. Check the packaging to see when and how much you should water after applying the fertilizer.

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Herbicides must also be used with care, as their effectiveness often depends on when they’re used. If you have a widespread weed infestation, it’s best to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to your lawn before the seeds germinate in the spring. Be aware, however, that you can’t use this treatment if you plan to plant new grass, as the herbicide will also prevent those seeds from germinating. For more isolated problems, spot treating with a non-selective herbicide should be enough to do the trick. Ultimately, the best way to discourage weeds is to have a thick, healthy lawn.

Planting Grass in the Spring

Once you’ve cleaned and repaired your lawn, you may need to reseed parts of it that are particularly bare or brown. This can dramatically improve the appearance of your grass, but there are a few simple steps you should follow to ensure that it won’t look worse after you plant than it did before.

First try to address the soil conditions that prevented grass from growing in the past. Call your local Cooperative Extension office to find out where you can get a soil test; this will tell you what nutrients your lawn is lacking. Once you’ve corrected your soil composition, aerate the ground to avoid any problems with soil compaction.

Now you’re ready to buy seed and spread it on your lawn. Before choosing a seed, determine which varieties will work best in your region of the country and with the amount of sunlight in your yard. Then roughly estimate the size of the area where you plan to plant, as seed coverage is recommended in pounds per square foot. If you’re spreading the seed over a large area, it is best to use a broadcast spreader, but smaller areas can be seeded by hand.

Don’t ignore the grass once you’ve planted it. Water regularly to maintain soil moisture and fertilize with a slow-release, low-nitrogen product. Mow when the grass reaches 3 or 4 inches (7.6 to 10 centimeters) in height, but try not to trim off more than a half-inch (1-centimeter) as doing so could stress the plant.

Cleaning and Repairing Your Lawn in Spring

If your lawn is already well-maintained, all you need to do is give it a light raking once the ground has dried out. However, problem areas should be addressed quickly, as they can stress your lawn and make it more susceptible to weeds and disease.

One common problem is uneven ground. Low spots cause poor drainage, while high spots are often scalped by the lawn mower. Since these situations create poor growing conditions for grass, grab a shovel, cut away areas that are raised, and fill in those that are depressed.

Another issue that plagues lawns, particularly in high-traffic areas, is soil compaction. This occurs when the soil becomes densely packed, making it difficult for grass to take root and allowing hardier weeds to take over. To test your yard for this problem, stick a garden fork into the ground. If the tines fail to penetrate 2 inches (5.08 centimeters), your soil is compacted and should be loosened with an aerator designed to remove small plugs of soil from your lawn.

Even if the soil is properly prepared, you can still have a problem with thatch, a tangle of above-ground roots common in dense, spreading grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia. In especially bad cases, a thick mat of thatch can make it difficult for water and nutrients to reach the soil. You can break up thatch with a specially designed rake or with a mechanized dethatcher for larger jobs.

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